Memories of a Dreamy Village – Chimney, Kurseong

We stood there gaping at the bird’s-eye view of the rivers Teesta and Mahananda , at patches of inhabited land that was Siliguri and its neighbouring towns, and a clear strip of land that we were told was Bagdogra airport. The wind continued to blow us over but we were too adamant to take pictures which could come close to replicating what we were observing with our naked eye.

Tejas (Co-founder of SaffronStays) and I had just about managed to get ourselves into the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway for Kurseong that morning. After what had been an extremely slow and scenic ride, with the sight outside our window never falling short of pine and juniper trees, we’d reached the small hill town of Kurseong. There on, we’d taken a shared taxi to reach Chimney, a village that lay a rugged drive away. Other than the half-baked information about the village deriving its name from a 23-foot tall abandoned Chimney that dated back to the British era, there was little else we knew about the place. We weren’t expecting much, until our cab screeched to a halt outside a beautiful house with yellow washed walls and a blue roof, and the driver called out for Amal, our host.


The stunning bird’s-eye view from Chimney.


The Chimney that the village is peculiarly named after.

Hugging ourselves against the strong wind and the biting cold, we made our way into the cosy home stay that had the prettiest attic room I’ve ever seen. Old classics and a few travel magazines lay scattered about the living room and guest room, both made partially of wood, and there was a certain old-world charm to the place. We spent the next few hours taking short walks around the village, gazing at the bird’s-eye view and watching the sky burst into shades of pink and orange during sunset. A short walk downhill from the home stay, kids ran about in the make-shift football field that stretched in front of the juniper forest, while uphill, the chimney lay hidden by tall wild grass in a small patch of land.


The misty juniper forest that stretched on the other side of the road.


The pretty attic room in the home stay.

Later that night, we accompanied Amal’s daughter, Victoria, as she made drawings of little princesses on her notebook, a talent she’s picked from her painter dad whose framed religious and landscape paintings adorned the walls. Minutes later, over a delicious dinner of chicken curry and rice, Mr. Amal Rai also modestly showed us a copy of a travel magazine dating back to 2010 where the writer wrote fondly about the very same home stay and their excellent hospitality.

I particularly remember the lines about their terrace. It made us tip toe up the stairs ourselves. It was cold and windy and a few stray clouds obstructed our view. But it was clear enough for us to spend a while watching the night sky flicker with a million bright stars and in the distance, the urban lights flickered in unison. I have been recalling that moment every now and then. In my head, I often retire to the night in that beautiful village, and until I’ve snapped out of my thoughts, everything seems alright.


Tejas captured this beautiful view from the terrace.



Note: I travelled to Darjeeling on assignment for SaffronStays in July 2014 and wrote this piece for their blog.